Recent content by JTBarlow

They’re definitely for the front bearings. I just haven’t ha a set of rear bearings go bad yet to have something to disassemble and pull measurements on. Despite them calling it a unitized assembly, it’s just press fit together. So there’s a good chance the bearings are the same, and the hub is...

Howdy and welcome to the Forum from a fellow Mesquiter 👋

Polaris wheel bearings are all ball bearings. Sandcraft has two upgrade kits, one a ball bearing, the other a taper roller. The tapered roller bearings require a very specific torque on the spindle nut to set the bearings preload. The ball bearings aren’t as particular.

Jerky engagement is typically a burnt belt. Most belt burn on these machines happens when you start out. If you ease into the throttle too gently, the clutch doesn’t clamp down on the belt fast enough so it can rub a little divot in it. For better belt life, you want to use enough throttle...

It’s completely normal. The only SxS with a geared front differential is the Pro R. Everything else has sprague type differential, and even with 4WD engaged, it only engages the differential when there’s a difference in rotation speed between each side (independently) and driveshaft rotation...

Typically I run between 10 and 12 psi. It gives a bit of cushion on the rocky trails, with a good balance for traction in the sand. With the stock wheels, I wouldn’t go below 10 psi.

I didn’t check the formulas but my local autozone has oils formulated specifically for Powersports. Atvs, utvs, etc. I just don’t like paying the “Polaris Tax” for products that are readily available elsewhere for considerably less money.

You also don’t have to use the Polaris oil. 2 filters off Amazon and a 5qt jug of full synthetic from your local auto parts store cost less than a single Service kit from Polaris.

That weight is aimed more towards the hot and desert areas. It’s good for 100°f+ riding. If your average temps are lower than that, the 0w40 is better.

I’m not a ‘26 owner, but I’ve worked on one. I can confirm that they are really low rpm. It never even hit 7000 rpm in sport mode, and punching on it. Because we’ve tuned ours for performance, all the factory Xpeditions feel neutered. I can’t say for certain if the ‘26s are worse than the’25s...

Can’t say this will stop the clunk if the rack is damaged. But it should help to keep from damaging the rack. I’m not aware of any other steering upgrades for the Xpedition. (This only works on OEM suspension)

I’ve yet to see an Xpedition where the roof panel lap joints line up. That, and because they expand with temperature, they tend to get a gap that allows water and dust in. It’s a bit of a project, but you can disassemble the panels and either silicone or weatherstrip under the joints. Silicone...

That said, yes, every Xpedition comes from the factory sitting below the advertised ride height. Pretty much every Xpedition I’ve measured comes in around 12” ground clearance. Advertised is 14”. Polaris springs are also notorious for sagging. Simply adjusting spring preload can help quite a...

On pretty much every other SxS going to larger tires robs power. The Xpedition, however, has a lower geared transmission (to handle the extra weight) than what the engine is designed for. Several people have dynoed the Xpedition, going to 32” tires, and they actually gain power. Once you get...

Howdy and welcome! On the headsets, it depends a little. I have Rugged Radios intercom in my machine because the majority of people I ride with also have Rugged. If you’re only in in-car coms, Cardo is a really great option. Being wireless, one person can get out and still communicate on the...