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Clutch Weight Question

Cburrier3

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I purchased a 2024 XP Ulitmate that has the polaris comfort clutch setup. I would like to put the original stock weights back in it. When I look up the part there are two different numbers. Part numbers 1327481 and 5145262. Does anyone know which one is for stock weights?

Thanks
Chris
 
search eBay for the original weights , the 5145262 is correct p/n which is a 44-67 weight , Polaris automatically updates it to 1327481 p/n which is a 44-81 weight which is what you have . Call a couple Polaris dealers near you and see if they have any weights that were removed when installing comfort weights.
 
I purchased a 2024 XP Ulitmate that has the polaris comfort clutch setup. I would like to put the original stock weights back in it. When I look up the part there are two different numbers. Part numbers 1327481 and 5145262. Does anyone know which one is for stock weights?

Thanks
Chris
Register your machine on polaris.And then you can go to the parts, break down and or check a couple different models and find out what weights are in which machine
 
Go ahead and put an aftermarket clutch kit in it. I went with Aftermarket Assassins cruiser kit. Have had it for nearly two years and very happy. I got the high load helix since I carry lots of gear
AA Xpedition S3 Clutch Kit
^ This, bigly!

A proper clutch tune is one of the best things you can do for these CVT UTVs/SXSs and if you’ve never done one there’s a night and day difference.

If you’ve upsized your wheel/tires and rolling on 32s/35s, anything larger diameter than stock it’s likewise a no brainer.

There’s some specialized tools that make it easier to do. I’m looking at the Gilomen Innovations ECU and clutch tune kit along with their install tools once I get my break-in done and get new wheels/tires (32s) ordered…
 
I started out with the full Gilomen clutch kit and ECU tune. I’m still running their ECU tune, but have switched all the clutch kit components over to aftermarket assassins.

Basically, I was having trouble getting my rpms dialed in where I wanted them. Also my machine is always loaded up very heavy. So I switched the clutch kit over to Aftermarket Assassins high load helix, Buttershift washers and Billet Primary Cover plate. AAs primary clutch weights are slightly heavier starting weight than Gilomen, and have a different weighting profile.
Now I’ve got it running 8200-8400 rpm instead of 8600-8800. The higher set gave more snap off the line, but the lower set allows more top end speed, while still being considerably more snappy than OEM.
 
I started out with the full Gilomen clutch kit and ECU tune. I’m still running their ECU tune, but have switched all the clutch kit components over to aftermarket assassins.

Basically, I was having trouble getting my rpms dialed in where I wanted them. Also my machine is always loaded up very heavy. So I switched the clutch kit over to Aftermarket Assassins high load helix, Buttershift washers and Billet Primary Cover plate. AAs primary clutch weights are slightly heavier starting weight than Gilomen, and have a different weighting profile.
Now I’ve got it running 8200-8400 rpm instead of 8600-8800. The higher set gave more snap off the line, but the lower set allows more top end speed, while still being considerably more snappy than OEM.
Thank you for that informative context, I appreciate it!

Nothing against Gilomen of course but I’m starting to lean towards AA for their clutch tune but will likely keep Gilomen’s ECU tuning…🧐
 
Belts can make a huge difference as well. The OEM Polaris belts have a sticky compound that helps them grab better, but usually gives a choppy engagement.

Ultimax belts will drop the rpms 200-300 from whatever the clutch was tuned at with any other belt.

Hunterworks belts are a decent all-around belt. Still better than OEM and lower cost.

And our preferred belt…
The GBoost RS belts give a very smooth engagement, while being thicker and stronger than OEM.
 
Belts can make a huge difference as well. The OEM Polaris belts have a sticky compound that helps them grab better, but usually gives a choppy engagement.

Ultimax belts will drop the rpms 200-300 from whatever the clutch was tuned at with any other belt.

Hunterworks belts are a decent all-around belt. Still better than OEM and lower cost.

And our preferred belt…
The GBoost RS belts give a very smooth engagement, while being thicker and stronger than OEM.
Interdasting…🤔 (as my younger daughter would say).

Y’all obviously have a butt-ton of experience with trailering with these machines and in addition to duning if anything is going to show what works (…or doesn’t) belt-wise in a UTV it’s exactly that!

In addition to OEM I’ve had good experience with the Hunterworks as a budget friendly OEM alternative on my RZR 800S and XP-4 1000 and Trinity’s “world’s best belt” on my Canned Ham X3.

I will mos def grab a GBoost RS belt here after break-in and keep the current OEM one as a spare…

Thanks again for the info!
 
Belts can make a huge difference as well. The OEM Polaris belts have a sticky compound that helps them grab better, but usually gives a choppy engagement.

Ultimax belts will drop the rpms 200-300 from whatever the clutch was tuned at with any other belt.

Hunterworks belts are a decent all-around belt. Still better than OEM and lower cost.

And our preferred belt…
The GBoost RS belts give a very smooth engagement, while being thicker and stronger than OEM.
Ultimax ua 480 or uxp480?
 
I started out with the full Gilomen clutch kit and ECU tune. I’m still running their ECU tune, but have switched all the clutch kit components over to aftermarket assassins.

Basically, I was having trouble getting my rpms dialed in where I wanted them. Also my machine is always loaded up very heavy. So I switched the clutch kit over to Aftermarket Assassins high load helix, Buttershift washers and Billet Primary Cover plate. AAs primary clutch weights are slightly heavier starting weight than Gilomen, and have a different weighting profile.
Now I’ve got it running 8200-8400 rpm instead of 8600-8800. The higher set gave more snap off the line, but the lower set allows more top end speed, while still being considerably more snappy than OEM.
Great feedback. I’m right at the ECU, Clutch and exhaust stage. After installing the 33” tires it changed quite a bit and enjoying rock climbing I am seriously considering the AA heavy that you just mentioned. What belt did you choose to go with?
 
Great feedback. I’m right at the ECU, Clutch and exhaust stage. After installing the 33” tires it changed quite a bit and enjoying rock climbing I am seriously considering the AA heavy that you just mentioned. What belt did you choose to go with?
I am using the AA cruiser clutch with high load helix with the stock belt
Took it on the rocks for 6 hours a month or so ago
No slipping and no issues
 
I started out with the full Gilomen clutch kit and ECU tune. I’m still running their ECU tune, but have switched all the clutch kit components over to aftermarket assassins.

Basically, I was having trouble getting my rpms dialed in where I wanted them. Also my machine is always loaded up very heavy. So I switched the clutch kit over to Aftermarket Assassins high load helix, Buttershift washers and Billet Primary Cover plate. AAs primary clutch weights are slightly heavier starting weight than Gilomen, and have a different weighting profile.
Now I’ve got it running 8200-8400 rpm instead of 8600-8800. The higher set gave more snap off the line, but the lower set allows more top end speed, while still being considerably more snappy than OEM.
I was having an issue with the clutch making a very loud grinding noise (it sounded like a manual transmission being shifted without the clutch at the wrong speed), when going down hill and just at the point of the primary disengaging. I took it back to the dealer, and they couldn't duplicate the problem, in all fairness to them, they didn't have enough of a hill to allow the vehicle to push the engine in decell, they did check the transmission linkage and change the transmission oil.
I bought the AA cruiser clutch, which included the parts JT mentioned as well as a new spring for the primary and secondary, and installed the slug magnets in the fly weights. The results were great, lower RPM's, much smoother starts, the clunk is gone, but I still had the noise when the vehicle was overdriving the engine going downhill just at the RPM the primary clutch was ready to disengage. I noticed the needle bearing was very dry when I installed the AA parts, so I ordered the tools to disassemble the clutch and needle bearing grease from Hunter Works.
When I disassembled the clutch, to service the needle bearing, I notice all 3 of the slider plates were cracked, and had some ridges in them from the end of the spider hitting them, and the sliders had wear from running against the ridge where they were cracked. The plates are on back order from Polaris until the end of November, AA had plates and sliders in stock, so I ordered a set from them, and Hunter Works only sells the sliders, so I ordered a set of their sliders as well. I installed the AA slider plates and the Hunter Works sliders and the noise has disappeared.
The picture of the sliders are from left to right Hunter Works, used originals, and AA, the AA may work just as good, I didn't try them, will save them for a backup set.
I'm running the Polaris HD belt part # 3212358. Everything else is original on the machine.
 

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The cracked slider plates are popping up a lot more often. We’ve had 2 machines with that problem in as many months, so we’ve asked our local dealers to start stocking up on them.

Your Xpedition is the 3rd I’ve heard of with the popping out of gear issue. The first was one of our friends’ ‘24 XP Northstar. He tried everything to get it to stop but couldn’t find the problem. It wound up going away after he did a frame swap from an accident… no idea why.

The second was my Brother’s ’25 XP Northstar. It just got back from the shop a week ago, from having the Transmission replaced. Like you said, it’s really hard to get it to make the grinding noise when you want to show the dealer, but it does it really bad when you’re out on the trail.
Our dealer was actually able to get it to pop out once, but when they tried to do it again for video for warranty, it wouldn’t.
The transmission oil was clean, no clunks or anything, but the tech said it was really messed up inside, once they pulled it apart.

It’s not caused by anything to do with clutching, just something inside the transmission that doesn’t fully engage high gear. And it’s a known issue, by reading the service manual. It describes the issue as a ratcheting noise, and has instructions on how to adjust the shift linkage. But also notes that if the problem continues with proper adjustment, it needs factory service.
So while it’s not a common issue, it is a known one.
 
The cracked slider plates are popping up a lot more often. We’ve had 2 machines with that problem in as many months, so we’ve asked our local dealers to start stocking up on them.

Your Xpedition is the 3rd I’ve heard of with the popping out of gear issue. The first was one of our friends’ ‘24 XP Northstar. He tried everything to get it to stop but couldn’t find the problem. It wound up going away after he did a frame swap from an accident… no idea why.

The second was my Brother’s ’25 XP Northstar. It just got back from the shop a week ago, from having the Transmission replaced. Like you said, it’s really hard to get it to make the grinding noise when you want to show the dealer, but it does it really bad when you’re out on the trail.
Our dealer was actually able to get it to pop out once, but when they tried to do it again for video for warranty, it wouldn’t.
The transmission oil was clean, no clunks or anything, but the tech said it was really messed up inside, once they pulled it apart.

It’s not caused by anything to do with clutching, just something inside the transmission that doesn’t fully engage high gear. And it’s a known issue, by reading the service manual. It describes the issue as a ratcheting noise, and has instructions on how to adjust the shift linkage. But also notes that if the problem continues with proper adjustment, it needs factory service.
So while it’s not a common issue, it is a known one.
JT, That is good to know about the transmission, I have the extended warranty on mine, but I'd rather it didn't leave me sitting somewhere. Mine first did it last May on the Hatfield and McCoy trails, I had stopped and when I started downhill it sounded like it jumped out of gear, free wheeling and grinding, I thought I might not of had it fully engaged in high gear. It did it several more times on my property in WV, I checked the linkage adjustment per the service manual and it was fine, so I took it into the dealer. I had it do it again, and I stopped to get my phone to record what it was doing for the dealer, both indicators on the dash showed it was still in 'H', when I let my foot off the brake and started to roll again it wasn't grinding, I feathered the throttle to engage the primary and everything was fine. This was the point I switched the AA parts to the cruiser clutch conversion, and it hasn't done it since, but I've only driven it a few times, I'll definitely keep track of it. My machine just has slightly over 900 miles on it, it is a '24 ADV5 Northstar.
Good to know about the belt, I pulled the original belt around 300 miles and saved it for a broken in spare. I'll look into the GBoost RS belt for my next replacement.
 
Go ahead and put an aftermarket clutch kit in it. I went with Aftermarket Assassins cruiser kit. Have had it for nearly two years and very happy. I got the high load helix since I carry lots of gear
AA Xpedition S3 Clutch Kit
I went with the AA kit also, and I'm still running the original belt at 6400 miles
 
High Country Unlimited B's FAB UTV

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