Rhino 2.0 rear axles keep blowing boot and cage

[COAdventures]

I have warranted 3 Rhino 2.0 axles (rear) on my Xpedition in 200 miles. I have a Super ATV long-travel kit with limiting straps. 33" Tires. I don't do anything crazy. Just run passes here in Colorado. WHY?
Someone told me that they don't get enough airflow to cool? This can't be right. The cage came apart on one and the bearings fell into the boot.
Any ideas?

 

[garciava66]

Ive replaced two Rino 2.0in 3500 miles with my SATV long travel. Both in the rear. One of them the knuckle locked up and the other one bent. Not going to say it wasn't my fault.
A buddy is on three with less then 400 miles. all on the rear Rino 2.0 with the SATV long travel kit. He lost two at the same time, said he was driving 50 plus on pavement for more than 30 minutes. He said they both were very hot
We both are running 33s

 

[johndeerefarmer2]

So far no problem on mine. I probably only have 300 miles on the LT kit and axles.

 

[WITodd]

Sounds like your going beyond the operating angle of the CV joint. Have you tried taking the outside axle hub and hub housing off and checking to see if the limiter strap is short enough that the inner CV joint isn't binding at full extension ? Or at least jacking it up and turning the rear axle by hand and feeling for clicking or jumping, and listening for binding ?

 

[JTBarlow]

It’s also a good idea to do break in cycles whenever you change axles, just like on belts.
Nothing will help if it’s going past it’s working angles, but running a couple heat cycles on them before going full force will help them live longer.

 

[COAdventures]

Sounds like your going beyond the operating angle of the CV joint. Have you tried taking the outside axle hub and hub housing off and checking to see if the limiter strap is short enough that the inner CV joint isn't binding at full extension ? Or at least jacking it up and turning the rear axle by hand and feeling for clicking or jumping, and listening for binding ?

I will definitely make a point to do this. I have not noticed during the changes. I will be putting it on a lift and taking measurements/ ride height.

 

[COAdventures]

It’s also a good idea to do break in cycles whenever you change axles, just like on belts.
Nothing will help if it’s going past it’s working angles, but running a couple heat cycles on them before going full force will help them live longer.

What exactly would a break-in cycle ?

 

[COAdventures]

Ive replaced two Rino 2.0in 3500 miles with my SATV long travel. Both in the rear. One of them the knuckle locked up and the other one bent. Not going to say it wasn't my fault.
A buddy is on three with less then 400 miles. all on the rear Rino 2.0 with the SATV long travel kit. He lost two at the same time, said he was driving 50 plus on pavement for more than 30 minutes. He said they both were very hot
We both are running 33s

Thanks. What do you have your ride height set at in the rear? ground to Skid plate?

 

[JTBarlow]

What exactly would a break-in cycle ?

Typically, run the machine gently and get the knuckles up to around 100°f, then let them cool down completely. Then run it harder to above 100°, and again allow them to cool completely.
You can run it a third cycle, full bore, and it will help.

It basically activates the compounds in the boots and starts the wear-in process on the balls and cage without over stressing them from the beginning.

 

[reactancexl3]

Hmmm, now I am a little concerned if I made the right decision. I just bought the superAtv long travel and planning on putting on 33's for my 2026 ADV 5.

 

[garciava66]

The SATV is a good choice.

 

[COAdventures]

Hmmm, now I am a little concerned if I made the right decision. I just bought the superAtv long travel and planning on putting on 33's for my 2026 ADV 5.

Most long-travel kits come with the Rhino 2.0 Axels. (HCR does too. And bought out by Super ATV) The kit itself is great! I switched the shock springs to a single-rate spring. I feel it is better performance over the dual-rate given the short shock throw.

 

[johndeerefarmer2]

I have had my XP5 since 2024 and am on most FB groups Xpedition related. I don't remember seeing many (if any) posts on problems with the SATV Rhino 2.0 on the SATV long travel kit. The only problem I had was one front axle fell out and messed up the splines. Took me several hours with a triangular file fixing it. After that happened I did install limit straps. (I do run with no the front sway bar disconnected)

 

[Pirate19]

Two suggestions:
Look to Turner Cycles. They make a Nitro axle that is about bullet proof. I ran them on my General, never had a problem the last 5000 miles.
Not exactly cheap, but excellent axles.

Look to Demon Axles. Had to use them on the back of the Talon. Polaris had two in the United States. One in southern Texas and one in Ohio.
The Demon Axles were doing great, until I totaled the Talon. Too narrow a trail. Not really that expensive.

 

[Pirate19]

I have warranted 3 Rhino 2.0 axles (rear) on my Xpedition in 200 miles. I have a Super ATV long-travel kit with limiting straps. 33" Tires. I don't do anything crazy. Just run passes here in Colorado. WHY?
Someone told me that they don't get enough airflow to cool? This can't be right. The cage came apart on one and the bearings fell into the boot.
Any ideas?

Looking at the axle in the photos, is the problem the inner CV joint boot is coming loose, the lube gets out and ruins the CV joint?
If so, take a look at this tool. I purchased one and have found it easy to use and really will clamp the CV boot to the housing.

I still have my Turner Cycles tool. This one is so much easier to use.
If the CV cage and balls haven't been destroyed, you can purchase the lube at a Polaris store.
Pirae