shaded2
Member
Just got the call from the dealer. Found that the hvac control was bad and the motor on the blend door is bad. Both getting replaced. hope that improves mine
Heater Performance
- Thread starter BADXP
- Start date
Hope that helps yours but frustrating to me. Were you not getting any temp change from your controls prior to this?
shaded2
Member
I didn't ever attempt to change the temperature per say, I didn't get mine till it was pretty cold so it was on max heat all the time. The fan speed would go past the max setting & shut off if you weren't paying attention. It seemed the blend door was working, so I dunno. I just got there voice message. If he says anything else I'll let you know when I call him back later
Update - I temporarily installed a 12v in line booster pump with switch on the heater core inlet. As you can see in the picture, I got 149 degree air with engine at 189 at idle. It is my opinion that the water pump doesn’t have adequate flow to the heater core to produce truly hot air. I need to think through and do permanent installation. I’m wondering if the issue is accentuated on the 5 models due to additional length of line the stock pump has to push water through. The risk of this mod would be if the booster pump was ran with temp control at any position cooler than full hot as you would be putting additional water pressure against the hot water control valve at the heater core with it partially or fully closed.
Attachments
Does anyone think if you modify the outlet hose to a larger size,match the inlet side of heater core? I feel like it’s a pinch point for that system… I don’t know much about these systems but thought I’d throw that idea out.
Thanks. The whole thing has me confused and frustrated. Some folks are like you and have great heat. Others of us arent getting the same performance. I have tested and verified my controls are working correctly. And of course Polaris tells me everything is fine. Without my mod above mine is not t-shirt rideable in 5 degrees.
shaded2
Member
I'm in northern Wisconsin as well and it was terrible. Its sitting at the dealer right now getting a new control panel. We'll see if it helps, I hope so. Will post more info when I get it back
shaded2
Member
Took it out today. It was single digits over night with ride temp of 16. Didnt notice any change with them changing the heater control. On high with engine temp at 180 it's pretty dismal heat coming out. Pretty disappointed. My 23 ranger had awesome heat
shaded2
Member
HrcF4
New member
I’ve been having issues again with my heater. It was good for a year and now I’m getting nothing but cooler air coming out of the vents! Let me know if anybody has an actual fix or a good way to bleed the system
Ryan
Active member
Same low heat temps as well. Sitting still its awful. I have not done any real digging but does any one have the burping/bleeding process documented or know where we can find it?
JohnnyG
Active member
They say they improved the heating on the 2026. I wonder if those improvements can be added to the 2024/2025?
JG
JG
johndeerefarmer
Well-known member
On my '24 my AC was mediocre in the Texas heat until I added bunches of insulation. Heater has always worked good. We took it out in single digits during a near blizzard and the only issue was-
If you got the wind in a certain direction lots of cold air came in around the doors. Had to crank the fan up to get that side of me warm while the other side got hot. Since then I have put black spray foam all around the door hinges. We haven't been out in the extreme cold to retest it.
2. As far as regular heater operation goes, it works great once it's warmed up. On the General I would put cardboard over the radiator. I didn't have to do that on the Xpedition
If you got the wind in a certain direction lots of cold air came in around the doors. Had to crank the fan up to get that side of me warm while the other side got hot. Since then I have put black spray foam all around the door hinges. We haven't been out in the extreme cold to retest it.
2. As far as regular heater operation goes, it works great once it's warmed up. On the General I would put cardboard over the radiator. I didn't have to do that on the Xpedition
JohnnyG
Active member
I have a paid version of ChatGPT so I am able to upload a service manual. I asked ChatGPT for a diagnostic. Long read, but potentially offers a fix.
Locate the two heater hoses at the firewall:
On this model, simply “adding coolant” will not fix it.
Key points (important):
Important context
STEP 1 — Vehicle Position (Critical)
Watch for:
Top off as needed.
Immediately top off when this happens.
At the same time:
If one stays warm/cool:
Top off radiator if needed.
After final cooldown:
If heat is now hot → issue resolved.
Only then move on to:
But on NorthStar XP5, this bleed procedure fixes the issue the vast majority of the time.
Polaris specifically notes HVAC sensitivity to coolant fill and bleeding on NorthStar models .
Heater hose test (engine fully warm, heater on MAX HOT)
Locate the two heater hoses at the firewall:
- Both hoses hot (hard to hold):
Coolant flow is OK → look at airflow or valve calibration - One hot, one warm/cool:
Air pocket or restriction (most common) - Both warm, not hot:
Valve not fully opening or trapped air
WHAT FIXES IT MOST OF THE TIME
✔ Proper coolant bleed (not just topping off)On this model, simply “adding coolant” will not fix it.
Key points (important):
- Vehicle must be nose-up
- Heater set to full HOT
- Allow thermostat to open
- Purge trapped air from the HVAC loop
- Coolant level must be rechecked after cooldown
NorthStar XP5 – Proper Coolant / Heater Bleed Procedure
Important context- The heater core and HVAC unit are the highest points in the system
- Simply “topping off” coolant will not remove trapped air
- This procedure must be followed in order, or heat issues will persist
STEP 1 — Vehicle Position (Critical)
- Park the vehicle nose-up
- Set parking brake
- Incline, ramps, or jack front slightly
- Engine cold
This forces trapped air to migrate toward the radiator and HVAC circuit.
STEP 2 — HVAC Settings
Before starting the engine:- Key ON
- HVAC set to:
FULL HOT- Fan on HIGH
- Defrost or floor mode (doesn’t matter, temp does)
This commands the HVAC water valve fully open, allowing coolant into the heater core.
STEP 3 — Access Radiator Fill
- Remove front access panel
- Remove radiator cap (engine cold only)
Do not rely on the overflow bottle for bleeding.
STEP 4 — Initial Fill
- Fill radiator slowly until coolant reaches the neck
- Squeeze the upper radiator hose several times
- You should see bubbles come up
- Top off as level drops
STEP 5 — Start Engine (Cap OFF)
- Start engine with radiator cap off
- Let engine idle
- Maintain coolant level at the neck
Watch for:
- Small bubbles
- Coolant level drop as air purges
Top off as needed.
STEP 6 — Warm to Thermostat Opening
- Allow engine to reach operating temp
- ~175–180°F
- You will see:
- Sudden coolant movement
- Level drop when thermostat opens
Immediately top off when this happens.STEP 7 — Heater Core Purge (Key Step)
- Increase engine speed to 2,000 RPM for 20–30 seconds
- Return to idle
- Repeat 2–3 times
At the same time:
- Feel heater hoses at firewall:
- They should become HOT / HOT
If one stays warm/cool:
- Continue RPM cycling
- Lightly squeeze hoses (if accessible)
STEP 8 — Final Top-Off & Cap Install
- When:
- No more bubbles
- Coolant level stabilizes
- Heater hoses are both hot
- Fill radiator to neck
- Install radiator cap
STEP 9 — Overflow Bottle
- Fill overflow bottle to COLD FULL mark only
- Do not overfill
STEP 10 — Cooldown & Recheck (Do Not Skip)
- Shut engine off
- Let vehicle cool completely (several hours or overnight)
- Recheck:
- Radiator level
- Overflow bottle
Top off radiator if needed.
CONFIRMATION CHECK
After final cooldown:
- Start engine
- Set heater to MAX HOT
- Within a few minutes you should get:
- Strong, hot air
- Noticeable temperature rise vs before
If heat is now hot → issue resolved.
If Heat Is Still Only Lukewarm
Only then move on to:
- HVAC water valve movement test
- Hose flow restriction check
But on NorthStar XP5, this bleed procedure fixes the issue the vast majority of the time.
Why This Works (NorthStar XP5)
- Long coolant runs + roof HVAC = air traps
- Engine temp sensor is fooled by localized hot coolant
- Heater core never fully fills until air is purged properly
Polaris specifically notes HVAC sensitivity to coolant fill and bleeding on NorthStar models .
XPEDITION Forum Photos
XPEDITION Forum Photos
