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Removing steering wheel?

CAR

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I would like to change out my steering wheel I know in the service manual it says to remove the upper steering column then remove the wheel. Has anyone change one besides removing the column? I don't want to damage the power steering unit. Thanks
 
STEERING WHEEL REMOVAL /
INSTALLATION

IMPORTANT

Striking the steering wheel or steering shaft while
installed in the vehicle can permanently damage the
power steering unit and cause a fault. Remove the
upper steering shaft, tilt/telescopic steering assembly
and steering wheel from the vehicle before attempting

to remove the steering wheel.
 
Has anybody swapped out the stock xpedition steering wheel to a Rzr pro steering wheel with audio control? Is that something that’s straight forward to do? I guess it would be nice to have the volume controls and the ride command shortcut right at your finger tips! Or can it be added to the expedition wheel?
 
I would like to change out my steering wheel I know in the service manual it says to remove the upper steering column then remove the wheel. Has anyone change one besides removing the column? I don't want to damage the power steering unit. Thanks
Hey Car,
I know your post is at least 6 months old but, this may assist someone else. I did make the decision to put on a quick release DRT steering wheel today and I removed it without tearing into the steering column. For me, the locking nut holding the steering wheel in place was the toughest part, but using a breaker bar, I was able to remove it without putting pressure on the steering shaft. Then I simply grabbed the steering wheel and began to apply pressure wiggling it back and forth until it broke free from the splines. Slid right off. Turned the machine on and off several times sterring it left to right and back multiple times and it did not appear to affect the power steering whatsoever.
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I like the tackiness of a suede wheel. I've had them on all my RZR's in the past. It's off-road show season in southern Utah so got a discount on a nice replacement. This past weekend saw this thread on removal, and followed suggestions... The red lock tight was a bear to get the nut to move. I did old MC tie down straps on either side of the wheel spoke to the seat mount on one side and the wire hole in upper roll bar on the other, this held the wheel steady for the breaker bar. I tried the rocking back and forth with no luck. Printed out the "steering column removal" from the service manual. Thinking HA, easy, just two upper frame bolts and the shaft bolt. Problem was reaching up under using only hand tools. My suggestion is, if you don't already have a power socket wrench, get one. After an hour of getting those 2 bolts off, it still took some whacks with a hammer to knock the plastic wheel off. The hardest part was getting the assembly back in. Holding one part with one hand trying to fish the bolt through. I found using a drift pin on the other side held it up. And I should have picked up an electric wrench at that point, but didn't... 3 clicks at a pull takes a lot of time, it's not hard but tedious. And the plastic edges on the dash are sharp. Didn't bleed at the time but the scabs that formed the next day say otherwise. Did a couple street laps to make sure it was centered and strait before I torqued the wheel nut tight. Hope this helps others on replacement.
 
Well I guess I got lucky and didn't have to go through all that. But I will agree , the red lock tight is going to be replaced with blue loctite!
 
High Country Unlimited B's FAB UTV

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