Brakes

[Cburrier3]

About 1 inch li length. 76 is to long hits the spring on shock.

Thanks for the information.

 

[Ryan]

Going to bring this back to the top.. Has anyone tried the new 20 part number? We know 49 works and 76 is to long.

 

[Lilrez13]

Ive read posts saying its not worth it so I didnt pursue.

 

[JTBarlow]

It makes the pedal feel better, but TPR did tests with it, and said it actually drops the line pressure.

 

[Pirate]

I’m surprised no one has said anything but the brakes on these things suck. Has anybody come up with a resolution? I see that they make rotor kits, but I have built cars for years and know that a rotor kit doesn’t help you need a big booster to make that happen

Oh Vince, the braking on the Xpeditions has been a topic of complaints for a long time now.
There is a real fix, but it's $3250. I added $450 to get two of the rotors for the rear wheels.

TPR Industries makes the kit. Here's what you get:

Pro R front brake calipers, with their CNC made mounting brackets.
The Xpedition front calipers will be moved to the back. Mounting brackets are provided.
Two Pro R billet machined brake rotors. I bought to more for the rear.
A differnt Master Cylinder with built in proportioning valve.
If you look at their website you will see how much it reduces braking distance to a full stop.
In the design it's about imipossible to lock the tires and slide.
It ain't cheap, but if you want the best in braking for your Xpedition it's the only way to go!

I have their Big Brake Kit on my Xpedition. The machine is now my priority, I worked hard to
be able to afford my toys. So it is!
Pirate

 

[johndeerefarmer10]

I installed the SATV sintered brake pads last week (no other mods to the braking system). I will get a couple hundred miles on it and report back. Got 25% off so was a cheap enough experiment.

 

[Oldtooly84]

Good morning, also working on the brake problem. The master cylinder stock has a 19mm bore, the so called upgrade has a bore of 22mm. The chart from Wilwood brakes show a decrease in line pressure. Something that I tried is changing my pedal ratio, by raising the hole in the brake pedal by a 1/2 inch. This increased the line pressure, now I can get the rear brakes to lock up on cement roads. Overall braking has improved, because of increased line pressure. My brake pressure ratio went from 5.5 :1 to 7:1.

 

[biggunzdep68]

So you drilled a new hole 1/2” above the old hole in the brake pedal? If so, I might have to try that.

 

[johndeerefarmer10]

Good morning, also working on the brake problem. The master cylinder stock has a 19mm bore, the so called upgrade has a bore of 22mm. The chart from Wilwood brakes show a decrease in line pressure. Something that I tried is changing my pedal ratio, by raising the hole in the brake pedal by a 1/2 inch. This increased the line pressure, now I can get the rear brakes to lock up on cement roads. Overall braking has improved, because of increased line pressure. My brake pressure ratio went from 5.5 :1 to 7:1.

Great info. Thanks. Let us know how it does

 

[Pirate]

Good morning, also working on the brake problem. The master cylinder stock has a 19mm bore, the so called upgrade has a bore of 22mm. The chart from Wilwood brakes show a decrease in line pressure. Something that I tried is changing my pedal ratio, by raising the hole in the brake pedal by a 1/2 inch. This increased the line pressure, now I can get the rear brakes to lock up on cement roads. Overall braking has improved, because of increased line pressure. My brake pressure ratio went from 5.5 :1 to 7:1.

But why would you want to "lock up the brakes"? Something I like about the TPR Industries Big Brake kit is you can't lock the brake up. But my machine stops a whole lot quicker? Not sure what the bore is of the Master Cylinder.

 

[Oldtooly84]

Ok, the comment about the brakes, the lockup occurred during test panic stops. From 25 and 35 mph stops. I have the 2 seater and get the front end dive throwing a lot of weight forward possibly unloading the rear. The increased line pressure has improved the braking performance overall . You have a Pro R master cylinder bore is 22mm. It was an experiment and it seems to work. Have a Good Day.

 

[Pirate]

Thank you for the information.
Pirate

 

[johndeerefarmer10]

Good morning, also working on the brake problem. The master cylinder stock has a 19mm bore, the so called upgrade has a bore of 22mm. The chart from Wilwood brakes show a decrease in line pressure. Something that I tried is changing my pedal ratio, by raising the hole in the brake pedal by a 1/2 inch. This increased the line pressure, now I can get the rear brakes to lock up on cement roads. Overall braking has improved, because of increased line pressure. My brake pressure ratio went from 5.5 :1 to 7:1.

How much did moving that change the amount of pressure it takes to push the pedal? Thanks

 

[Oldtooly84]

How much did moving that change the amount of pressure it takes to push the pedal? Thanks

Hi, there was a reduction in pedal pressure. According to the pressure listings on the Wilwood chart. A 3/4” bore master cylinder at a 5:5 brake pedal ratio, has pressure of 1250 psi, when the pedal ratio increases to 7:1 it increases to 1590 psi. That’s about a 30% increase, and that’s what I think the pedal pressure has reduced too. Free travel of the pedal has increased and can be adjusted to lessen the travel. It just takes a drilled hole try it, if you don’t like it put it back the way it was. Have a good day, I’m going for a ride.

 

[biggunzdep68]

Well, I drill the new hole 1/2” above the original hole like the above post. Gave it a try and for me, it didn’t seem to make it any better, actually made it a little worse. It felt like my brake pedal went all the way to floor and it wasn’t stopping my XPEDITION. Again, this is just my experience doing this with my ADV 5. Took me a couple of minutes to move it back to the stock brake position and back to normal. I’ll be looking at other ways to improve the brakes at a later time.

 

[Pirate]

Well, I drill the new hole 1/2” above the original hole like the above post. Gave it a try and for me, it didn’t seem to make it any better, actually made it a little worse. It felt like my brake pedal went all the way to floor and it wasn’t stopping my XPEDITION. Again, this is just my experience doing this with my ADV 5. Took me a couple of minutes to move it back to the stock brake position and back to normal. I’ll be looking at other ways to improve the brakes at a later time.

A suggestion. To me your experience says there is air in your brake lines or Master Cylinder. My General would have pretty good brakes, but now and again the pedal would go all the way to the floor and I had to steer to avoid things until the machine came to a stop. Then the brakes would come back and all was good. This happened more than just few times.

So, I got out my bleeding set, it uses compressed air as an aspirator to pull suction on the brake line. Each wheel gets done separately.
I figured the new brake fluid was clear, the in use stuff was yellow. So I used the tool to pull all the yellow fluid out of the entire brake system. Adding fresh brake fluid to keep from pulling the system dry.

After this, no problems at all. I did the same after installing the TPR Big Brake Kit. No problems at all.

Just a suggestion.
Pirate

 

[biggunzdep68]

I agree with you but my ride is still new, only 2.5 miles on it. It’s never been offroad yet, just up and down my street to test things out. My first trip out will be Veterans Day so I’ll see how things go that week. I may not need to upgrade my brakes, but I’ll find out that week.

 

[Jay B38]

I had my brake pedal out to trim the lower right corner a bit, and I thought I'd try the second hole thing. Personally, I like it. More leverage equals more pressure. Sure the pedal travel increased some, but that's the whole concept behind leverage. Without adjusting anything there's still 3-4 inches of travel before the firewall. Just my .02.