Wiring Accessories to the Pulse Bar

[JGKopp]

In case anyone else is interested, I did this drawing for a better understanding of the Pulse Bar and how to wire up accessories with a relay and back lit 5 wire rocker switch. A link to this pre-made wire harness from Amazon is listed along with a “white” back lit switch. You will note, the load draws power from the larger 40 AMP circuit and the 10 AMP “Keyed” circuit turns the back lit switch and accessory on or off.
John #PolarisXPEDITION

 

[Crispy]

Thank you John, very helpful!

 

[Crispy]

John, how did you run wiring up to the light? No A pillar covers to hide behind, and trying to figure out how to get the leads from inside to outside on roof, or did you just run it all outside? TIA for any info!
Cris B

 

[JGKopp]

Hi Cris,
My light wiring consisted of a chase light however, I did route wire to a speaker I mounted to the rear view mirror.
I unmounted the passenger side of the front ceiling liner. Untucked the part behind the roll bar and you will find a factory wire loom routed inside the A pillar that comes out up there. Also take the passenger side mirror and inside plastic backing sections off. You will need a 12mm deep socket to get the gas strut ball mount removed for taking the inside plastic cover off. Now look at the attached pictures of this area.
I used a roll of 1/4” drip mist tubing to route from up top and down through the inside of the A pillar and it easily went till it bottomed out. I then carefully hooked onto it and pulled it out where the mirror was. You can use a metal coat hanger for this hook. Looped a pull string or in your case hook your wires to it for pulling it up the inside of the A pillar to the factory hole up top. The wires need to be routed already from the dash side it was just easier to work from the outside of the car in doing this.
WD Electronics has a methodical Xpedition installation video that will show you how to take the top dash panel off. I never took it completely off, you only need to lift it up slightly on the passenger side but be sure to release all of the hold down hardware. Make sure you have the plastic tools for pulling the push pins, they are cheap to buy. I will link a video I did after installing the street legal kit and I talk about taking apart the dash. It’s meant to provide some additional detail after watching the WD installation video and the pointers I added will help. I have a link on this video for the plastic tools. Hopefully all this is helpful.

 

[Crispy]

Thanks! Great write up, I will dig into video later but I think I have the idea!!! Very helpful, I’m sure others will appreciate it also.

 

[Crispy]

And why would you mount a speaker to rear view mirror? Aux coms speaker?

 

[JGKopp]

Yes, that’s what it is. I just added a post about it. Two-way radio install

 

[ddeyoung]

Just finished adding signal lights to the PulseBar. Ran them up under the interior headliner which is much easer than under the buggy. Bought on Amazon for $69 for horn and turn signal kit. Yes it took some time, but came out great. Couldn't justify paying hundreds more for something not used much.

 

[sscappaticci68]

Anyone install a fuse block and relay for added accessories ?
I would like to add a separate fuse block similar to the one below, but I would still like to have a relay (ignition) to shut the power
off when the key is out. below is a quick drawing of what I have in mind.
Looking for input...

 

[JTBarlow]

It’s definitely doable. I’m personally not a fan of those types of fuse blocks because of the tendency for the terminals to get corroded, since it’s not sealed. While it’s a bit more expense, switch panels with solid state controllers are much better for being sealed. And generally cleaner wiring.

 

[sscappaticci68]

It’s definitely doable. I’m personally not a fan of those types of fuse blocks because of the tendency for the terminals to get corroded, since it’s not sealed. While it’s a bit more expense, switch panels with solid state controllers are much better for being sealed. And generally cleaner wiring.

Do you have a part number for the SS controllers you could share.

 

[JGKopp]

Anyone install a fuse block and relay for added accessories ?
I would like to add a separate fuse block similar to the one below, but I would still like to have a relay (ignition) to shut the power
off when the key is out. below is a quick drawing of what I have in mind.
Looking for input...

View attachment 5329
View attachment 5331

Be carful using existing factory wiring for this add on. Should be new wiring back to battery assuming you have already maxed out the accessory plugs on the Pulse bar. If the Pulse bar still has amperage capacity, they do make splitters (expanders) allowing for more plugs.
You also need to consider what your alternator can put out against the electrical loads.
Many companies are making electronic boxes that provide keypad switching. You may want to consider going that direction.

 

[sscappaticci68]

Be carful using existing factory wiring for this add on. Should be new wiring back to battery assuming you have already maxed out the accessory plugs on the Pulse bar. If the Pulse bar still has amperage capacity, they do make splitters (expanders) allowing for more plugs.
You also need to consider what your alternator can put out against the electrical loads.
Many companies are making electronic boxes that provide keypad switching. You may want to consider going that direction.

Thank you very much, you bring up good points I will just use the pulse bar connections.
I do have more spots available.

 

[JTBarlow]

There is a limitation to the Pulse Bar system. The total amperage is 40 amps, so the total amperage draw from the pulse bar accessories should be around 35 amps max.
Most accessories have very low draw. It’s things like light bars and other lighting that draw the most. For instance, I just installed a 50” Rigid light bar and Sector Seven Lighted mirrors on an Xpedition. The Rigid light bar is wired through the pulse bar, but the Sector Seven mirrors are wired directly to the battery cable terminal on the pulse bar and uses their own fuse and relay. The total amperage of the two of them is +/-40 amps.

Wiring an additional fuse block or switch panel to the battery cable terminal, like on your drawing, is ok. But you may need a larger fuse at the battery, depending on the accessories you’re adding. The battery terminal cluster has the bolt on fuses for the Pulse Bar and winch.

Here’s a few of the Switch Panels I know of.

Alpha12 Digital Smart Switcher with 12 Outputs

Switch-Pros SP9100 8 Switch Power Control Panel

8-Gang Switch Panel With RGB And Remote Control Bluetooth App

Amazon.com

The more expensive ones have higher current ratings.

 

[garciava]

A switch panel is the way to go when running LED lights. only one wire to run into the cab and you don't have to use the relays that come with the lights. It's a lot less wires. I've got my pod lights, front bar light which has three modes, rock lights and whips all running off the switch panel with only one small wire going into the cab

 

[sscappaticci68]

Be carful using existing factory wiring for this add on. Should be new wiring back to battery assuming you have already maxed out the accessory plugs on the Pulse bar. If the Pulse bar still has amperage capacity, they do make splitters (expanders) allowing for more plugs.
You also need to consider what your alternator can put out against the electrical loads.
Many companies are making electronic boxes that provide keypad switching. You may want to consider going that direction.

Thank you for the drawing very will laid out, I do have a question shouldn't pin 85 be ground & pin 86 be connected to the switch ?